Chikankari uses more than thirty named stitches, grouped into flat stitches, raised stitches and jaali. The most common are tepchi (running stitch), bakhiya (shadow work), murri and phanda (raised knots), jaali (open lattice), hool (eyelet) and zanzeera (chain stitch).
Flat, raised and jaali
Flat stitches lie close to the cloth and outline or fill shapes. Raised stitches stand up from the surface as knots and grains. Jaali creates open, lace like areas by easing the threads of the cloth apart rather than cutting it.
The stitches
Tepchi
A running stitch that outlines stems, leaves and borders. Usually the first stitch a karigar learns.
Bakhiya
Shadow work. Stitched in a crisscross on the reverse so the colour of the thread glows softly through the front.
Murri
Raised, rice shaped knots, often used to fill the centres of flowers. Among the most skilled and time consuming stitches.
Phanda
Tiny round knots, small as millet seeds, clustered to fill petals and flower hearts.
Jaali
An open lattice made by easing the threads of the cloth apart and holding them with stitches, without cutting the fabric.
Hool
An eyelet: a small hole worked open in the cloth and bound with fine stitches, often at the centre of a flower.
Zanzeera
A chain stitch, often used to outline petals and leaves.
Pechni
A running stitch wrapped with thread to create a fine textured line.
Keel kangan
A stitch used for flower petals, combining fine lines in a wheel like form.
Ghaas patti
Grass blade stitches worked in V shaped rows, used for leaves and fillings.
Khatau
A form of appliqué, where cloth is laid onto cloth and stitched down to form a pattern.
Questions people ask
What is the most common chikankari stitch?
Tepchi, the running stitch, and bakhiya, shadow work, appear on almost every chikankari piece.
Which chikankari stitch takes the longest?
Raised knots such as murri and dense jaali work are among the slowest, and pieces that use them heavily take far longer to finish.
Keep reading
What Is Chikankari? · How to Identify Real Hand Chikankari · Chikankari Fabrics: Mulmul, Georgette, Chanderi and More · Why Hand Chikankari Costs What It Does · The History of Lucknow Chikankari · How to Care for Chikankari